“Non-toxic” and “clean” aren’t regulated
Terms like non-toxic and clean sound reassuring, but there’s no single global standard behind them. That’s why we prefer to be explicit about what our polish leaves out, rather than rely on vague labels.
What 12-Free actually means
“X-Free” is shorthand for the number of commonly used ingredients a formula avoids.
- 3-Free: no DBP (dibutyl phthalate), toluene, formaldehyde
- 5-Free: also excludes formaldehyde resin and camphor
- 7-Free: also excludes parabens and xylene
- 10-Free: also excludes fragrances, additional phthalates, animal-derived ingredients
- 12-Free: also excludes ethyl tosylamide and triphenyl phosphate (TPP)
Kester Black nail polish is 12-Free, vegan, and cruelty free. That’s the definition; here’s the reality.
The unpopular truth: older polishes often wore longer
Many legacy nail polishes used film-formers, plasticisers and solvents (for example, tosylamide/formaldehyde resins, certain phthalates, high-aromatic solvents) that gave exceptional adhesion, hardness, and gloss. When consumers (rightly) demanded safer formulas, brands removed or reduced those materials.
Result: if you swap out very durable film-formers and plasticisers, wear time can drop unless you completely re-engineer the system. Some brands did; many didn’t. That’s why you may feel modern “cleaner” polishes chip sooner than the stuff you wore 10–15 years ago.
This doesn’t mean "clean" = bad. It means performance now depends far more on:
- the quality of the alternative resins and plasticisers a brand selects
- the base-and-top-coat system you use with the colour
- your prep, application, and aftercare
What we can (and can’t) promise
- We won’t promise that a 12-Free mani will outlast the most aggressive, old-school salon gels or legacy solvent-heavy formulas on every hand, in every lifestyle.
- We will promise thoughtful chemistry and a complete system designed to balance safety, comfort, and performance: smooth application, fast dry, and respectable wear when applied and maintained well.
How to maximise wear time with safer formulas
If you want your 12-Free mani to last, technique and system matter.
Prep
- Degrease the nail plate with isopropyl alcohol (no residue)
- Shape gently in one direction; avoid over-buffing
- Keep free edges tidy to prevent lift
System
- Base: use a treatment base formulated to anchor colour (e.g., Miracle Treatment Base Coat)
- Colour: 2 thin coats; don’t overload the brush
- Top: a fast-dry, UV-filter top coat to seal and add slip (e.g., Supersonic Top Coat)
- Edge-capping: run base, colour, and top across the free edge
Aftercare
- Re-apply top coat every 2–3 days
- Avoid long hot showers or washing up straight after painting
- Use Self Love Oil daily; hydrated nails flex instead of flaking
- Wear gloves for cleaning and dishes
- Remove with a non-acetone remover; don’t peel
Do this, and most people see wear that feels comparable to “the good old days” without the old-school trade-offs.
Why 12-Free still matters
- Comfort and wellbeing: fewer irritants and sensitisers on nails and skin
- Ethics: vegan, cruelty free, and responsible sourcing
- Daily life: lower odour, easier removal, less dryness when used with oil care
Cleaner chemistry isn’t fear-based. It’s about choosing modern materials that respect your hands and your routine, then using them well.
FAQ (straight answers)
Is 12-Free always better quality?
Quality isn’t guaranteed by a “Free” number. It comes from smart formulation and a complete system. Some 12-Free is excellent; some isn’t.
Will 12-Free last 10+ days on me?
It might. It depends on prep, lifestyle, and aftercare. Use base + colour + top properly and you’ll get the best version of your wear time.
Why does my polish chip faster than gel?
Gels are different chemistry that cure into a tougher film. If you prefer nail health and easy removal, 12-Free lacquer is a strong choice with better day-to-day comfort.
Bottom line
Older polishes often lasted longer because they used more aggressive chemistries. Today, you can still get beautiful, durable results with safer formulas — it just takes a smarter system and better habits.
